Edge Pro v. Wicked Edge v. Work Shop Ken Onion Electric Sharpener

This is what you get:

 

Ok so it just grinds in a steeper bevel on the tip. I don't think it would degrade knife cutting performance but it could make it more fragile or reduce edge retention. I wonder if you could use stop collars and lift up the back end of the arm when sharpening the tip.

 

By moving the knife on the EP table as you go you can mitigate the bevel size at the tip like if you want. It does take some practice. Same idea for single bevel knives, to knock off the burr from the flat side you have to use the EP stone off the machine like a finger stone.

 

Yes, the tip becomes more fragile. If the grind at the tip is thick to begin with it actually improves performance.

 

I've used EdgePro, Wicked Edge, and other guided systems. EdgePro is the only one I kept. Freehand is my preferred method, but there are things the EdgePro does that are not easily replicated freehand. On short knives (parers, pocket knives) I consider the EdgePro almost unbeatable. If you look up madrookie on other fora, you'll see some EdgePro work (especially on harder steels like ZDP189 and M390) that will take your breath away. I also think the EdgePro is a good learning tool for freehand because you'll come to understand something about grits, pressure, angles and such.

 

Like what for example? I'll pass on the madrookie thanks.

 

Without mentioning any names, here's an EdgePro edge on a Spyderco M390. IMO, this would be hard to do freehand.

 

I would run those on my might-be-a-Nakayama stone and my Asano Nagura...if I owned one of course. One being the knives.

 

Why would one put a mirror edge on a pocket knife?

 

Mostly because they think it looks cool I'm guessing?

 

Thanks for the input gentleman. I have tried freehand sharpening but I rarely get the angle correct. I am currently using the Spyderco system and it does an OK job for my kitchen knives and works fine for the fishing knives I use. What I am looking for is a system that is better than the Spyderco system but does not require the skill of freehand sharpening. Since I am over 70 years of age I doubt I will ever get the required skill of freehand sharpening. Hell, I do more damage to the knives when I attempt to use a sharpening steel!

I am not talking about expensive, high quality knives. I have yet to convince my wife that putting knives in a DW is not a good idea and since she does most of the cooking and I can't afford two alimony payments : discretion is the answer for me. I currently have a set of J.A. Henckels knives that I have owned for 15 years.

 

I have no experience on any sharpening system you mention but I hope this video will help........

 

Two reasons at least: (a) it looks impressive, (b) it's a testament to the sharpener's skills. Why does Konosuke put a mirror polish on some blades? Why does Murray Carter shave with a spoon? Why do some people put Shapton 30k edges on kitchen knives? They're showing off, to put it bluntly.

And maybe the Spyderco above is used for cutting salami, not rope.

 

I think what Edipis is saying is, why would you want to over polish this knife into underperformance of it's intended purposes.

While it may look impressive, I wouldn't consider using a guided system "sharpener's skill". Which I believe is the purpose of these systems. With no prior training within 5 minutes anyone can have an edge like that should they desire. So I can see the merit in that. My problem with these systems is you can not properly sharpen single beveled knives and sharpening asymmetrical double bevel knives (all of them) properly can become a chore.

If you do use these jigs I suppose it's best to learn how to work around these limitations. Yes, limitations. So basically I would have to stay away from single bevel knives all together and for double bevel knives I'd have to change the angle every time I flip the knife. I would also like to think about a workaround for the belly/tip sharpening. In addition to that there's convexed bevels, thinning as I go techniques and EP stone wear effect on angles to consider. There might be more but to me it all just seems like things I can just do by feel.

Even sharpening the same knife is different every time because of micro adjustments made on the fly by feel. It's just over thinking/complicating things while adding limits/roadblocks to the process. You're just rubbing metal against a stone here guys.

 

can any of these guided sharping systems thin knives? polish secondary bevels?

 

It's quite clear the forum consensus is that freehand sharpening is superior to using a jig and I concur though I don't see the relevance. The OP clearly stated(twice) that free hand sharpening isn't for them. Kind of like beating a dead horse to continue to tell them to do it anyways, no? ...Feel free to continue standing on your soap boxes singing to the choir if it makes you feel better, though.

Work Shop:
Pros - Removes metal fast(or at least it should as it's essentially a mini-belt sander), easy to setup
Cons - Possibility to over heat blade, limited to predetermined angles, Only 1-year limited warranty(electric parts will fail eventually)

Wicked edge:
Pros - Easy to setup, Simple to use, knife is affixed to jig(shouldn't wobble)
Cons - Most expensive startup($275+), expensive replacement stones($65+), limited stone options

Edge pro:
Pros - Lots of stone choices(synthetic and natural), most accurate sharpening angle, table supports flexible blades
Cons - hardest of the three to setup, requires the most user skill, suctions cups aren't ideal(should be mounted)

Personally, the only one I would recommend avoiding is the work shop. A regular belt sander or bench grinder(with paper wheels) would be a better option, imo, if want to go that route. I would recommend getting an angle cube to verify angles(if important to you) as the EP and WE markings are rather arbitrary.

It's takes me a lot longer than 5min to mirror polish an edge, jig or freehand. Please teach me!!!

 

i dont know much any of these systems but after watching product videos on youtube i think i would much prefer the edge pro. atleast you can get chosera stones with that kit.

 

I still think one of these would be cool with a 1k and 6k wheel setup:

http://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?21404022536672 (not endorsing seller or specific model, just an example)

 

That blade is only a couple inches long. Pretty sure it doesn't take long to sharpen it. I'll say however, if I were to choose a jig system, the edge pro seems to be the most complete. More stone options and with stop collars and angle guides I think you can work around some of the limitations. I want to say it has a cheaper entry than the wicked edge as well.

 

I'll start by saying that I've never used the Wicked Edge and that I have owned and used extensively the EdgePro.

If I was to chose one today I'd try the Wicked Edge. I like the ability to clamp the knife in place (no wobbling or fumbling), I like how each side can be adjusted individually to account for asymmetry, and I believe it has a better chance of making less of burr if used (one stroke on left - one stroke on right and so on) as instructed, than the EP does.

I also would not want to give a penny of my money to the folks who cut up and market the EdgePro Naniwa Chosera & Shapton stones (FYI - it's not EdgePro), I'd rather give my money to a bum on the street.

Maybe WickedEdge also has fancy stones for sale too? I don't know, but if so I'd have to find out who the source is before I purchased them.

So I'm not dogging the EP, I realize it's a good jigged system, I'd just prefer to see if the newer designed WE made improvements on the older ideas.