Stone Stropping

Gents, a question for the collective. For those of you that do an edge trailing stoke or stop on your high grit stone, do you raise the edge or keep the angle the same as sharpening?

I have a knife I am having a hard time de-buring....I usually do a few edge trailing strokes after each grit progression and it will take care of the burr, but my Takeda has been giving me a fit....if I raise the angle on the edge trailing stroke, will it negate sharpening?

Any success with stone stropping?

 

I follow the same angle when i strop on stones...

And use Mr Brioda's method for deburring

 

Remind me what his method was? Is that increase the angle with an forward stroke then flip and strop?

 

He uses edge trailing strokes alternating each side to "flip the burr" and the finishes with a lateral stroke to take the but off.

He does it at the angle of sharpening.

Link is here.

 

To rip the burr off, get a piece of wood, identify the end grain and pull the edge straight through the end grain 2-3mm deep. Will leave a beautifully smooth and razor sharp edge.

 

I always liked this blog; though it's more appropriate for razors, I think a lot of useful insights can be gleaned about the behavior of steel at microscopic scales.

Two posts that might bear some indirect relevance:
https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/2015/01/13/what-is-a-burr-part-2/
https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/2015/10/30/burr-removal-part-1/

 

I know this is anathema to you JNS guys (the HORROR, the HORROR!), but...
I have a loose rough leather strop, an old belt, hanging from a screw in a door frame in my kitchen,
with separate sections inbedded with 1 micron and 0.1 micron diamond dust for burr removal and touchup.
Yes, it produces a convex micro-bevel, but the geometry near the edge isn't changed,
and the edge and near-edge areas get smooooooth. And convex edges are strong. I was doing the above before I read
Verhoeven's article on sharpening.

My thoughts on teeth: Teeth, because a small amount of the edge is doing all the cutting,
will dull quickly.

 

I'm not a groupie for any particular vendor, but I do use Japanese stones, and I also use a hanging strop made from an old trouser leg loaded with autosol. I sometimes chase it with a slight high-grit microbevel on stones, or a followup strop with a finer abrasive like chromium oxide or fine diamond paste.

There are many ways to make a knife sharp, and variety can be good.

 

I use the JNS technique for my kitchen knives and a loaded leather strop for my outdoor knives.
For the trailing edge strokes, I typically use a comparatively high grit Shapton Glass Stone (the 5,000 grit made for the Bob Kramer Euroline series works well).

 

I have found removing the burr more efficient using alternating edge leading strokes when finishing up each on each stone. I also try to for as small a burr as possible too. I finish stropping on bare leather for a nice crisp edge.

 

How many strokes on that bare leather?

 

Usually just 3-5 per side.

 

I also do only edge leading strokes, alternating and least possible pressure. Then strop on loaded balsa, and probably 10-30 strokes. Usually does the trick getting the edge I like.

I also upkeep sharpen my own knives on only strop often. Imo that works for a long long time if the edge is good from the start.