Honing steel - does it need to be smooth/polished?

Hi all, this forum was recommended over at Badger & Blade as a better place to ask kitchen knife related questions.

My question is this - I am struggling to find a cheap honing steel which is smooth. Most have some fine ridges. Is this a problem? Someone did manage to find a smooth one for me, but I am still curious (and if I can save a bit of money!).. does it make a difference?

For context, I am using it with Victorinox & Sabatier knives, so probably no need for ceramic, etc.

I'm a real beginner, so any information is great! Thanks!

The original post is here:
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...p-go-whetstone-for-kitchen-knives-first-timer

 

F. Dick makes some smooth ones.

 

Could one of our fine members please educate myself and Mark on the different types of honing/sharpening steels, ceramic, smooth/polished etc.

 

Coarse steels are old school. They remove some metal while re aligning the edge. Ok for softer steel in the hands of someone that knows what they're doing but a quick way to ruin an edge . Smooth steels will re align an edge that has rolled without removing metal. They can extend the life of an edge on soft steel without going to stones. Ceramic steels are finer, but still remove some metal. None would be recommended on hard steel. Unless you're very careful with light touch, you will do more harm than good.

 

Ok, thanks for the warning!

So with my knives, you would say it really needs a polished one?

So does that mean that for a hard steel, you wouldn't use anything, just a stone?

 

I used an F. Dick multicut for years on those kind of knives, no problem. Worked great with my Nenox petty too. Never had a problem with chipping. I also use a cheap generic ceramic rod that probably came from an old Old Chicago set. If you don't want to invest a lot if money look in thrift stores.

 

F Dick makes good stuff. All my butchers use their steels and Scimetars. In my opinion, you have more latitude on knives like Sabs and Victorianox, but I would stick with smooth steels to touch up between sharpening. Most people I see are too aggressive with steels. You're just straightening out the edge, not removing metal. I don't use steels on my hard steel knives. Maybe some do . I use a strop a bit.

 

Good info guys, I will be sticking to my stones and newspaper stropping I think, I have got the hang of that pretty good.

 

Newspaper stropping?? Is that effective? Is stropping generally to achieve the same purpose as a steel?

 

For high hardness blades, I've found that the HandAmerican borosilicate rod and the New West Knifeworks ruby sharpening "steel" both work well. Use a very light touch and make three or four passes. CKtG used to carry the HandAmerican, but no longer list it. Here's a link to the ruby "steel" at New West Knifeworks:

http://www.newwestknifeworks.com/pr...s/knife-sharpeners/ruby-sharpening-steel/4012

 

I think light touch is the key, no matter what you use. You have less worry about damaging the edge on the softer more forgiving steel you use, but use care. I just re did a Scimetar for a local butcher. Knife felt very sharp, but was useless. Under a lens, you could see little chips along the edge. His co workers just smirked when I asked how he steeled his knives. They know better. Try to match the angle of your sharpening.
I was curious about that Ruby steel. Not to aggressive Rick? I use ceramic occasionally on Aeb-l or whatever Sandvick Will Catchside uses . Works well.

 

Not aggressive at all with a light touch, as you say. It is abrasive, so if you use too much pressure, or too many passes, it will remove material. It's quite a bit smoother than an Idahone, which is supposedly around 2000 grit, so I'd estimate at least 4000. The description on the website doesn't say.

 

You say no need for Ceramic, but I wonder why? IMO it would suit sabs and vics more than a smooth steel steel

No need to spend a lot on one, I've got a cheap one and it works well enough

 

Fine ceramic honing rods in the 2k range work great with these kind of knives!

 

Bought a DMT EE Fine (2200 grit) ceramic rod a while back. Works like a treat.
Mind you i usually start the sharpening process with that, then stones and leather strop to finish.

 

Thanks so much for all the guidance everyone!