Making Wa Handles

I was considering how difficult it would be to make simple traditional Wa handles. On the face of it, they seem to be a wooden dowel oval-ed, octagon-ed, or D shaped with a ferrule and a hole drilled in them. There must be more to it than this though, right?

On the buffalo horn ferrules, do they select a piece that is appropriately sized and section it from the horn or do they buy them from some source all ready to go and fit it to shouldered handle blank? Does buffalo horn become pliable when heated? What else is used to make the traditional ferrules?

I see a some with chestnut handles, but don't like the look of them. What are some good woods available here to make the simple traditional wa?

I know that a band saw, belt and disc sander would simplify things, but they were not using them 1000 years ago.

Thanks

 

They would have used planes, draw knives and files "back in the day". I think they would be easy to make, if you keep it simple. The fancy ones like some of the guys here make take serious skill, obviously.

Fitting the blade is probably the trickiest bit, and it is done by heating the tang red hot and burning it into the hole to get a tight fit.

 

I like the look of a simple wa with contrasting ferrule. I had anticipated installing the the tang with epoxy. I know that is not the taditional method, but some of the quality makers do it that way, and it is within my existing skill set. I thought that the ferrule function was to prevent the handle from splitting, but on some of the fancy handles I've seen, it appears that they are composed of stacked components which do look great, but don't seem to serve this function.

 

If you drill an oversize hole and use epoxy there is no pressure from the tang for a ferrule to contain. Also, many of the handles have a internal dowel to help keep everything together. If you want a really close fitting handle, slot the dowel for the tang before you assemble the handle components.

 

I see your point rick. what about the pressure from use? a relatively long blade acting as a lever on the tang and handle? Not a consideration?

 

Not really, unless you're using it as a prybar or the tang is really short.

 

Easiest thing in the world, if you have the tools




Basically you are right, the ferrule traditionally is a ring to prevent the cracking of the very light ho wood. If you use denser woods or stabilized woods, that is very unlikely to happen as a result of the shearing force of the tang.

In principle, you combine the parts for the handle, drill to accommodate the slot, and then epoxy it in. But from here on you will find dozens of variations and differences in the details, depending on the materials, the makers' styles or need for safe outcomes, aesthetic aspects etc. I made my first handles with a vise, a couple of rasps and files, sand paper, and a hand drill. Now I have a lot of tools and can make them faster, not sure about better... I don't think the 'tradition' of kitchen knives as we know them now goes all that far back, but as the video shows, for the basic standard handles, the specialized tools do in minutes what takes me a couple of hours or more, doing it by hand or with 'standard' tools.

Stefan

 

Thanks guys
Stefan that video was great. I like seeing all those un shielded machines. Japan must be a far less litigious society.
What is the character of buffalo horn? can it be formed by heating and bending? Or must it be shaped by stock removal? Is must sand and polish similar to wood?

 

Buffalo horn can be shaped by files/sandpaper, etc. Heating and bending is not a good idea; it will seriously warp if heated too hot, even when using sanders and stuff. Stock removal is the way to shape the horn; they make a cavity in it either a round hole or oval hole to let the handle slip into the hole.

 

You can heat and bend buffalo horn quite easily. I do it to straighten razor scales. I would think you should be able to do the same with a horn "ring" as well. The trick is to cool it where you want it. When heated, its super pliable, almost plastic. Bend it, shape it flatten it, then cool it quickly, and it holds its shape. For razor scales, I heat carefully with a torch, and press it between two metal plates. It works EVERY time.

 

You guys are the best

 

Here you go. For example...

 

That is nice to know. We have a Deba with a semi melted ferrule. (second knife some unknown person left on the hot stove top) I assumed it was plastic because it looks melted. Maybe I will try warming it up with the butane torch and reshape it. I considered having it re handled but it is not that great a knife to begin with.