to rehandle or not...

We have a circa 1960's Hofritz Sabatier slicer. Probably called a ham slicer as it has the rounded end rather than a point. Twelve inch blade. The black (mystery plastic) scales on the handle are a mess... splitting badly in a number of places and likely to start falling apart. The blade also needs reprofiling.

I realize it would probably cost more to rehandle and reprofile than it is worth but my husband is rather fond of this knife. Need recommendations on craftsmen to do the work. Considered trying to do it myself but am reluctant to use one of his two favorite blades as a learning experience.

Nancy

 

I'd talk to Dave about it. He does beautiful work. If it's a favorite then I'd spend the money to get it done. It will make it even more special.

 

Dave does some great western handles and spa treatment on blades.

 

I'll be the third here. Dave does amazing work. I wouldn't worry about the knife's market value. It'll look great after Dave's done with it. I say go for it, then post photos.

 

I'd be tempted to get work from Dave if I lived closer. I've got this chunk of amazing koa on the way and I think it'll be too thin for a Japanese handle.

 

Dave and I have exchanged some messages. I just need to take some photos to send him and come up with some money. Spending way too much right now ordering hand made blades and other stuff for the shop.

 

If the blade was comming from my wife and I knew she took the time to rehandle it herself, it would be much more special to me than having her pay someone to do it, regardless of how it turned out........maybe just me.

Rehandling a knife is not all that difficult and I bet you can do it with some basic tools you probably already own.

There are plenty of people here to help you and walk you through it should you try it on your own.

 

I am sure I could do the handle. Found lots of good detailed info online. And, the current scales are in such bad shape you could break them loose with your fingers. My college degree is in design. A bit rusty at it, but I am/was pretty good at building models (industrial design stuff - rather than kits). Having the time is my biggest problem. And I just don't think my skills at reprofiling the blade are up to par.

 

Speaks for itself.

 

Yes #6 it certainly does!

I had problems getting the cracks in the scales to show up, taking photos with the cell phone. So, dusted with a little Wondra.



In the middle photo, there is a large blob of flour. That is a burn in the scale. Ten years or so ago "persons unknown" laid the knife down on top of the stove during Thanksgiving dinner. We have a small older commercial stove. The entire top is a cast iron grate, which gets hot. Really hot especially if the oven is on. I suspect that burn and the heat is what caused the plastic to fail.

The bottom photo shows the worst part of the wear to the blade.

I am still more inclined to have Dave do the Sabatier slicer. Maybe some time I will pick up some vintage blades at Goodwill and use them as a learning experience.

 

is the bolster symmetrical where it meets the scales?

 

Not sure what you mean by that question. The scales meet the bolster in a gentle curve horizontally and at a slight angle vertically. Reproducing that in wood would require a great deal of skill.

When I was researching rehandling knives, I found a very detailed tutorial online. I won’t link to it here, because I was not all that impressed with the end results. The knife used in the tutorial looks like an older Sab with a similar handle configuration.





The knife pictured above is definitely made up of three parts that were attached. I can’t tell from looking at our knife, if the blade, bolster and tang are all one piece or not. I know the knife is 40+ years old. So probably drop forged as one piece. The use of powdered steel and sintering parts together was not used by the major knife manufacturers until around the early 1990’s.

In the tutorial, the guy filed down the rounded edge of the bolster, so it would be easier to make the handle and get a tight fit. You can easily see the three parts of the knife in the photo. I doubt I would file down the bolster on that knife. Kind of undermines the structural integrity of an already weak looking connection.

 

I was wondering the curve on the left was the same on the right. The asymmetry makes them a little more fun to work on.

Yours is one piece forged for sure.