What's on my Bench Today?

Yeah, that's baking my biscuit right there, Buddy! The 'standard' hamon looks so classy!! Nice one, Cris

 

Thanks man!!

I've got two more with similar lines being ground next week. A 150 petty and 210 gyuto

 

The suji has one of @mkriggen's handles on it .

 

Bro, that is some beautiful wood in that handle! What is it, spalted maple?

Be well,
Mikey

 

Thanks Mikey! Its actually dyed box elder burl .

 

New handle for ko-gyuto #1 lol:


I started with some 1800's wagon wheel wrought iron (from an 1850's conestoga no less) and forged it to suit my goal of being able to get three separate spacers in two separate thicknesses out of it.



Here you can see the spacers flattened, cut, and drilled. You can also see the spalted Oregon maple burl from Mark at Burlsource that I planned on using for my main handle material. I considered using the purple or the bog oak as well, but scrapped them both in favor of some 16ga nickel silver to bracket the wrought iron.



Here they are stacked, with the rough outline of the handle on the side of the blank.



Getting thing shaped. The first step is to get the blank square to the tang hole. You can see the contrast of the wrought bracketed inside the nickel silver already.



No tapers as of yet. The key to making the handle work is to get everything square first. After that you can cut in whatever tapers you like.



Here I've cut in the curve on the bottom of the handle. From here I cut the rounded butt, then my facets. The end result was really clean, and I almost left it that way.



As I said, I almost left it like this lol. In the end what decided me was balance. The removal of the extra material on the grip side of the handle would help move it forward a small amount, and on a small, ultra thin knife like this, that is a benefit you can't overlook.



And the result. This is after all of the rough shaping. It still needs polished out and oiled...and for the iron to be etched to show the grain...but even like this I think it's beautiful.



In hand.



Here you can see the grain of the wrought after about ten million etching cycles in vinegar. It turned out very much as I was envisioning...if a bit less 'contrasty'. Still...I'm not complaining at all!




A few more pictures of the etched wrought with the nickel silver brackets. I think this is truly my favorite handle to date .

 

DUDE!!! Some kinda sexy! ump :like :cool1

 

Thanks man! I wish I had half the skill of some of the photographers on this site to showcase it properly! It seriously came out EXACTLY as I envisioned it...which is kind of amazing lol. As a craftsman you quickly learn that most things you make that you're happy with, are 'happy surprises' lol. This one worked out just as intended .

 

Second leather saya...



I decided to go with a distressed look on this....simply as a matter of personal preference lol. This saya is obviously head and shoulders above the saya on the passaround (which is getting mailed tomorrow)...mostly because the passaround saya only has to protect the knife. This one, a customer paid for.

Anyhow...that's what was on my bench tonight. Thanks for looking .

 

So have you bought an industrial sewing machine yet? or a giant hydraulic cutter?
If so we are missing pictures...

If not what is your method for making the leather saya?

 

No industrial sewing machine lol...just two hands! Same for the cutter...I used electrician's snips . The method to make them is actually not difficult.

Basically you cut two sides, cut a welt that fits the blade to go between them, and glue them together. Then you run a line for your stitches...and punch, drill, or otherwise make room for the needles to pass through the leather. Apply any designs you like to the leather, as well as any dyes, and stitch it up with waxed string in a saddle stitch. From there, I spoon lard into the opening, and use the blade to drive it into the saya until its thoroughly coated...and melt it in while I'm melting beeswax into the outside until it won't take any more. At this point the leather is HARD like leather armor...waterproof, and won't rust your carbon steel knives.

Now, I've skipped a couple steps...like dressing and buffing the edges, how to tie off the stitching etc...and other small steps. But the above is the basics of it. Trust me. This is my second saya...lol. Its not difficult. The main reasons for the upcharge are the astronomical price of leather and quality tools to work it...and the time involved. This sheath took me about 4hrs to complete...from cutting the leather to buffing the wax coat...and I only charged $40 for it. That's $10/hr and that doesn't account for materials lol.

I'm honestly considering raising prices a bit and including them with my knives. The protection during shipping is worth it alone...and having a safe place to keep the knife for storage and travel for the end user is priceless.

What do you guys think?

 

I think it's great, and a nice touch. USPS says "challenge accepted" lol

 

you make it sound so simple! I dig it. I like tan leathers personally. Light browns. Looks like it will last a very long time!

 

It really really is simple lol!! I'm telling you man...there's nothing to it.


As for the colors...I like the darker stuff...but the customer has a choice within reason as to what color they'd like.

 

WOW!!! dude I'm a sucker for wrought iron, that turned out so so nice!! How much of that wagon wheel wrought do ya have btw? haha, man I use ferric for wrought, I could imagine that vinegar would take forever! That would be like trying to etch damascus with it ! but I'm sure you oconsidered FC since that's what ya use for your hamon That seath is gorgeous, That is by far my favorite color dye that I've ever seen used! I've seen a few guys get that color and always wondered how they did it.. mind if I ask how you achieve that? I'm really trying to get set up for leather sheaths but I don't know the best place to buy somewhat smaller amounts for a few sheaths here and there without going overload on it or getting ripped off for those small pre-cut sheets sold at knimaking suppliers. Plus I have no clue really what type of leather to get, there's too many on those sites like wicket & craig etc lol Mind if I "also" ask ya where you get yours from and which type/cut ya get?

Sorry I haven't updated you on that W2 for like a week now, I haven't forgotten, I promise! I've just been a bit caught up dealing with a package comming two days later than it was supposed to. Finally got here though, and it's purdy damn cool! I finally got myself a "stump anvil from Old World Anvils, one of their 4x4x4" pieces of heat treated 4140, except I emailed them and was able to get a piece that is 10 3/4" long (instead of 4") and it weighs a good 50 lbs, so once I get it mounted I'm sure it'll be perfect, and a lot more quite for my neighbors sake that my previous hunk of mild!

So yea, I tried to message you, but it won't let me PM you, or it doesn't show the option to do so. The only option when I click on your name is to "start a conversation" which I think is just an open chat on your profile.. Maybe it's because I'm not a paying member? I know bladeforums is that way so I'm not sure.

Anyway, everything you've shown recently has been beatiful as usual man, it's cool to have a bladesmith whose work I like update his forum as often as you do with new stuff... so keep it up! op :cool1

~Paul

btw, sorry bout all the questions here, if I can ever figure out how to pm you I'll save 'em for those, or maybe I should just email?

 

'Start a Conversation' is the PM process...I'll send you one when I'm done replying here .

On the wrought...it's glued into the handle lol...if I used ferric, I'd be destroying a rather beautiful and expensive block of Oregon maple burl. Mark @Burl Source would string me up and probably refuse to sell me any more wood .

Thanks on the sheath!! For the color, I first use Eco-Flo Antiquing Gel #2607-01 Black. I don't put it on evenly...just all over in globs, with at minimum thin smears covering the entire sheath. I let it dry some then rub it all off, then take it to the buffer. MOST of it actually goes away. Then I go over the entire thing with Eco-Flo Leather Dye #2600-11 Scarlet Red. This stuff is almost pink it's so red...and the sheath will look goofy. Again, let it dry, buff it, and take a look. If some spots are too red, go back over it with the black and let it soak in longer...then rebuff. Remember also that the wax saturation darkens the color up some and plan accordingly.

I get my leather and dye from Tandy. I've been using single shoulders because they've had them on sale for $30 which is a steal considering a similar double shoulder is like $100 lol. Depending on the sheath, I'll use different thicknesses. Mostly for (my very thin) kitchen knives I'll use 6oz sides, and a 3-4oz welt. My EDC sheath is 80z sides with a 60z welt. Make sure you get vegetable tanned stuff. It'll still rust the steel if you don't treat the inside, but it's far less caustic than the chrome tanned stuff.

No worries on the W2 my friend...I have plenty of knife steel . Whenever and whatever you get around to will be more than fine!

 

Really like that handle and especially the grain on the wrought spacers!! nice work Cris:like

 

Thanks Warren!!

Hey @Toothpick!! I need some help finding @strumke's 280mm suji. Think you could help a brother out??



I'll even give you a closer view just so it doesn't bite ya !



I think I should go into the puzzle making business lol...anyone agree?!

ump

 

Very nice! I'm trying to catch up. How did you taper/round the handle and make the facets? Did you use a belt sander?

 

He is going to be soooo upset because I can't find it!